Kutch, beyond the Rann

During the dry season the Rann is cracked and hard, caked with a thick layer of salt which shines a brilliant shimmering white, but come monsoon the region is flooded first by sea water and then river water, a unique ecological phenomenon that attracts not only tourists but many a migratory bird species from thousands of kilometres away.

The Stepwells of Gujarat

Water has always held a central role in civilisations, and these magnificent structures make more explicit the ancient concept of the sanctity of water. Built with great thought and reason, these stepwells are akin to inverted temples, where you walk down to the water surrounded by beauty and tranquility.

The Patan Patola

Patola saris have adorned women of royalty for centuries, but today they are a dying art. Difficult to create in this form, Patola saris today are being made by new age looms and in some place even machines; Mr Salvi is rueful as he tells us this. There is some hope though as Mr. Salvi says that his nephew is being mentored to take over the family tradition, and so Patola will survive, in this family at least, for another generation.

5 Apps you need while travelling India

Everyone has a smartphone and besides playing candy crush and surfing the internet, regardless of wether you are in the Android or iPhone camp, you can leverage a number of  apps to make your travel planning less painful. These are the apps we have used extensively on our journey so far and which we think…

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The Last Leg of our Southern Odyssey

After travelling through Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka and the stunning Andaman Islands, we head to Andhra Pradesh, the land of super spicy food and Telangana, the youngest state in the Indian union. Looking forward to exploring the slightly weird but funky seaside town of Vizag; Uncovering the 2000 year old Buddhist trail and some of…

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Notes from an Island

Day 1 – it seems we have landed in a classic definition of paradise. Pristine waters, with shades of blue and green stretching out for miles, soft white sands, swaying palms trees and thick green forest that line the shore, and a calmness in the air that can only be attributed to people who are…

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The Old Guard

Lined and wrinkled, Jehangir Ahmed squats by the entrance to the famous Jumma Masjid in Bijapur, quietly pulling at his ‘biddi’. As we look up at him from the bottom of the stairs that lead up to the Mosque doors, he gestures to us from his perch, indicating that we should not hesitate, but enter…

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Sultans of the South; The Deccan Sultanates of Bidar & Bijapur

Beautiful old monuments and ruins inhabit street corners and stand forlornly in the middle of overgrown fields, many forgotten in the bustle of everyday life. Questions as to their origins elicit vague responses and disinterested shrugs, the locals having lived besides these relics all their lives, simply consider them to be part of the topography of their little town. This however, only serves to enhance their wonder and mystery, and we can’t help but feel that we are exploring lost history, off the beaten path.

Hampi: The 5(ish) Minute Guide

Planning a Hampi trip? We tell you how to get there, where to stay & the top places to visit in Hampi in our comprehensive guide to this ancient city.

In the Lair of the Tiger

Almost as soon as you leave the crowd of the market and the bus stand behind, Srirangapatam starts working its charm on you. For liberally sprinkled in every direction are remnants of a bygone era, waiting to be uncovered.

Ismail

Smaller towns that have ruins and monuments spread around usually have a plethora of auto drivers willing to take you around for a small fee. Settling on this fee involves typical Indian style of negotiation, with you and the auto driver smiling and laughing, with some small talk thrown around, till a price is decided….

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