Five (more) Super Homestays Across India

Anyone whos been following our travels knows that we believe there’s no better way to explore a place than staying in someone’s home. In 2016 we published a list of our favourite homestays in India. This year we’ve added five more. Jambughoda Palace, Jambughoda, Gujarat Named after the jamun trees that are abundant in the region,…

Nagaland’s unknown World War II heroes

Intertwined with the history of World War II is that of the Naga hills and its people. We seek out the few surviving Naga veterans to hear their accounts of the great war.

Life in a Naga Village

I was stuffed. I had just eaten a massive plate of the yummiest fried duck with rice, bamboo shoots, and yellow lentils, made local Lotha style. There was boiled squash along with the meal, but after 10 days of boiled squash, I was ready for a different vegetable. The duck was soft and mildly spiced,…

In Search of Nagaland’s Tattooed Headhunters – Part II

Read Part I here We sit sipping tea and eating surprisingly good chocolate croissants as the sun sets over the Naga hills. All around us are acres of tea estates, waves of short green shrubs punctuated by the occasional tree; the first we have seen in Nagaland. We are outside the village of Shiyong, at…

People of Nagaland

Our 10 favourite portraits from our time spent in India’s far east.

Your 5(ish) minute guide to Kohima

Kohima is large and sprawling city, built over several ridges and hill tops. At first glance it seems like every other hill town, crowded, busy and full of traffic. But as Nagaland will teach you repeatedly, appearances can be deceptive; and this bustling hill town, an amalgamation of cultures and peoples from across the state,…

The House that Clark Built

We walked into the three storied church, one of the largest we had seen outside Kohima, and were struck by the simplicity of the house of worship. There was no ornate carvings or marble statues, just rows and rows of wooden pews, a podium in front with a mike and a section for the choir….