The Sonepur Mela, Bihar’s answer to Pushkar

Down to the river. It is pitch black as I stumble out of my tent and join the stream of humanity resolutely making their way towards the river in the inky darkness.  It was only 5 am, but already the streets were lined with vendors selling everything from packets of flowers to hot milky tea….

The Pushkar Mela in Photos

A photo essay on the Pushkar Mela with its camels, street artist, elaborately turbaned villagers, naga sadhus, colourful nomads & everything else in between.

Anandpur Sahib and a short history of the Sikhs

If Amritsar is Punjabs heart then Anandpur Sahib is its soul. Read about one of Sikhism’s holiest sites, the ancient warrior order of the Nihangs & the Virasat-e-Khalsa museum with its excellent documentation of Sikh history.

Life in a Naga Village

I was stuffed. I had just eaten a massive plate of the yummiest fried duck with rice, bamboo shoots, and yellow lentils, made local Lotha style. There was boiled squash along with the meal, but after 10 days of boiled squash, I was ready for a different vegetable. The duck was soft and mildly spiced,…

In Search of Nagaland’s Tattooed Headhunters – Part II

Read Part I here We sit sipping tea and eating surprisingly good chocolate croissants as the sun sets over the Naga hills. All around us are acres of tea estates, waves of short green shrubs punctuated by the occasional tree; the first we have seen in Nagaland. We are outside the village of Shiyong, at…