The Sonepur Mela: Of Elephants & Tantriks

Down to the river. It is pitch black as I stumble out of my tent and join the stream of humanity resolutely making their way towards the river in the inky darkness.  It was only 5 am, but already the streets were lined with vendors selling everything from packets of flowers to hot milky tea….

The Pushkar Mela in Photos

A photo essay on the Pushkar Mela with its camels, street artist, elaborately turbaned villagers, naga sadhus, colourful nomads & everything else in between.

If it’s September, it must be Ziro!

Turns out September has brought us back to the stunning Ziro Valley again, for one of the nicest music festivals in the country. Replete with green and yellow checkered fields, with a ring of towering mountains in the distance, Ziro is the perfect place to soak in some great music and vistas. There is also…

India Beyond the Guide Books

A palace in Gujarat, an art village in Maharashtra, and three more amazing places in India that you wont find in the Guide Books.

Of Sadhus and Sins

One of the largest religious gatherings in the world, the Kumbh Mela is also the largest outdoor party for Sadhus or Hindu priests. Held every three years in 4 different locations across Northern India, the Kumbh is the Hindu version of Sunday confession. Every three years people gather, from all across the world, to pay…

Ramzan in the City of the Nizams

Festivals in India are celebrated with great gusto, for as a people we do not believe in moderation when it comes to the veneration of any of our religions. Combine this passion with narrow bylanes, wares that sell at less than half price, women bargaining at a volume that competes with the call for prayer…