Punjab’s Princely Past, Part II: A Moorish Mosque in Punjab

Over a century ago a young flamenco dancer caught the eye of a well traveled and intellectual young Indian prince and against all odds ended up marrying him. The fascinating story of Anita Delgado, a barely literate Spaniard and daughter of a cafe owner, is well documented, and is the stuff that fairy tales are…

Chandighar: The Indian dream city

Chandigarh’s beautiful open spaces, orderly feel & Le Corbusier’s iconic vision make it the ideal place to spend a few days exploring another side of Punjab.

Life in a Naga Village

I was stuffed. I had just eaten a massive plate of the yummiest fried duck with rice, bamboo shoots, and yellow lentils, made local Lotha style. There was boiled squash along with the meal, but after 10 days of boiled squash, I was ready for a different vegetable. The duck was soft and mildly spiced,…

The House that Clark Built

We walked into the three storied church, one of the largest we had seen outside Kohima, and were struck by the simplicity of the house of worship. There was no ornate carvings or marble statues, just rows and rows of wooden pews, a podium in front with a mike and a section for the choir….

Our first taste of Nagaland

Our first few days in India’s far east were spent absorbing Kohima, getting into the Nagaland vibe and visiting the beautiful village of Khonoma. Read about it here.

We Are Family

Many years ago, I was travelling across Turkey, with a white male friend. We were off the usual tourist circuit and visited small towns and villages. Because we couldn’t pass off as related, I wore a ring. When anyone asked if we were married, this helped avoid a lot of questions and made life easier. For years,…