1. Every meal you have will be Pork or Squash or both  (with mounds of rice of course)

The Nagas love their Pork and it’s not an exaggeration to say that almost every Naga home owns at least one pig. There are places you won’t get chicken but you will get pork, and if you are vegetarian be prepared to eat lots and lots of squash. But don’t fear vegetarians, there are lots of organic vegetables to be found in the markets, and most Homestay families are happy to cook them for you. Forget rotis here though, the Nagas grow over 30 varieties of rice and eat most of it themselves!

2.Everyone has a gun or a Dao .. or usually both

The Nagas are prolific hunters and most Naga homes, especially once you move away from Kohima and other bigger towns, will have a gun and a long blade hunting knife called the Dao. Whilst some village councils especially in southern Nagaland have banned hunting, as you move north and eastwards, it is not uncommon to see villagers walking the roads looking to shoot that one last bird that somehow escaped them.

3. The Sumo taxi has 11 humans, a few chickens, bags of vegetables and rice, and everyone STILL looks comfortable

And we are not even kidding! The Nagas must be the most accommodating people around, you can stuff the Sumo taxis to bursting point, drive on some of the most terrible roads around and everyone is still having a gala time dancing (read bouncing) in the taxi… except probably you and the chickens.

4.The market sells red hot chilies and squash alongside snakes, eels, worms, and assorted other delicacies

The joke is that a Naga will eat anything with legs that is not a human, table or chair, and anything that flies that is not a plane, and though this may not be true anymore, you can still walk into a market in Kohima and get your hands on your choice of worms, frogs, bee larvae, assorted insects and even snakes. Bon Appetite!

5. You are ALWAYS greeted by a smile wherever you go

For all the stories of their violent past, people in Nagaland are some of the warmest and friendliest we have met. People are nice, rarely get agitated, are always smiling and when they know you are visiting will go out of their way to make you feel comfortable. We were offered fruits and tea and assorted snacks more than once, just because they loved the fact that we were travelling in their state, and were bouncing about in the sumo with them and their chickens!

6. You can walk into Myanmar and you may not even realise it

Nagaland shares a border with Myanmar and for many that live along the eastern part of the state, the border is somewhat arbitrary. The northern village of Longwa was divided by an International boundary, and many have family on the other side. While wandering around Longwa it is rather easy, and fun, to step off the main road that runs through the village and put one foot into Myanmar!

7. The largest building in any village is a Church

Nagaland may still be tribal in large swathes, but it’s the largest Baptist state in the world. 99% of Nagaland is Christian and every village has at least one church. It’s not unusual to hear little kids who can’t speak English singing random English gospel and pop songs.

8. Almost everyone you meet has an ancestor who might have lopped off someones head

True story! Before the coming of Christianity, the Nagas were headhunters. Headhunting was a rite of passage for a young Naga warrior and he was only considered a man once he had taken a head in battle or at the very least participated in the battle. Headhunting was also considered a way to ensure the longevity of the race, welfare and security of the village, and fertility of crops and was thus fairly rampant across the region. Thankfully the only thing that loses its head these days in Nagaland is a chicken or a pig! We met several people whose fathers and grandfathers were headhunters, and in the northeastern district of Mon met several former headhunters themselves.

 9. Sunday means no taxis will run anywhere

Nagaland takes its day of rest seriously. Sundays means no taxis (or for that matter buses) will run anywhere. So if you are planning to travel Nagaland using public transport, make sure you factor that in and use Sunday to eat and sleep, along with the rest of the state.

10. Homes are decorated with skulls not garlands

Nagas are very attached to their hunting trophies and whilst the days of headhunting and displaying of human skulls are long gone, you will still find Naga homes adorned with skulls of bisons, monkeys, hornbill beaks and other assorted animal skeletons. Interesting stuff.

And last but not the least, you know that you are in Nagaland when spectacular vistas like the one in the cover image become almost boringly commonplace.