Agar firdous baroye zameen ast,

hami asto, hami asto hami ast” 

– Amir-e-Khusru Dehluvi

While Khusru was undoubtedly talking about Kashmir and perhaps rightfully so, the concept of paradise on earth can easily be attributed to many places in Arunachal. Nestled amongst imposing mountains and surrounded by deep green forests is the almost mythical Ziro Valley. It is perhaps one of the most beautiful valleys in the country, with layered rice fields and a landscaped of rivers and little villages. On a clear day the skies are impossibly blue and the wind creates beautiful music as its floats about the valley in and out of trees, making you want to run around and sing. (Yes, sometimes there is nothing better than a good imagined bollywood moment).

Dotting the region are little villages with several different Apatani tribes living in harmony with nature, much like the rest of the state, where many still practice old ways of life and customs. The town of Hapoli boasts a couple of banks, small markets and a busy small town life. It is here in the valley of Ziro, in Hapoli, that the region previously known as NEFA was inaugurated as a separate Union Territory and officially named Arunachal Pradesh in 1972. The UT later went on to become a state in 1987.

It is also here in the picturesque valley that the Ziro Festival of Music is held every year, since 2012, and will be in its fifth edition this September. We attended the festival last year and what a wonderful experience it was. The festival is a great mix of Indian and International music, tribal and folk artists from the North East, superb food stalls with all kinds of cuisine, and of course the yummy, made for all weather rice beer! Set on a slight hill and incline, the festival has a great atmosphere and vibe, and an even better view. Imagine sitting on a soft grassy knoll, surrounded by green fields and people swaying gently to the music, the sun on your face and those imposing Himalayas all around you. It truly is the perfect place for an indie music festival. For those of us who grew up listening to the Beatles and John Lennon, The Who and Janis Joplin, the Grateful Dead and CCR, the festival is our very own Woodstock. There is an atmosphere of peace and love, and a time to make new friends and dance away, or simply soak in the stunning scenery and feel alive.

We stayed at a beautiful little homestay run by the very chatty and helpful Punyo Chadda and his lovely wife, who cooked us the yummiest meals. The couple is warm and generous, making us and other guests feel very welcome in their home. All the food was cooked with produce either from their home garden or the local market and is flavourful and healthy. Kaka, Punyo’s wife, was happy to indulge our preferences and served up some delicious pork and other meats made in the local Apatani style. Every day we walked through the fields and Apatani villages to the festival venue, chatting with the numerous villagers working on their rice fields, some of whom were obliging enough (ask respectfully!) to allow you to take photographs.

Walking through the Apatani villages was almost like being transported back to another era. The single story houses on low stilts and the older women with the facial tattoos sitting on the porch chugging back home brewed liquor is not an uncommon site. The Apatani tribe has a unique system of preserving the ecology and only practice wet cultivation, usually without the use of machines or animals. They are not nomadic, unlike other tribes in the state and have settled in Ziro for generations. Seeing the extreme beauty of the region, it is no wonder they settled here. They are also famous for their facial tattoos, and though most of the older generation still have them, the custom has now been abolished by the tribal elders and the younger women are mark free. Though one might lament the dying of an age old tradition and art, the older women themselves agree that it is an extremely painful and scarring process and they don’t wish it on their daughters and others. Story has it that the Apatani women were considered the most beautiful amongst the entire region and were frequently kidnapped by men from other tribes. Thus they began a process of facial tattoos to make them less desirable. I am not quite sure it worked, because the women we met, even the old wrinkled ones, have a great beauty and an elegant quality about them.

Due to the festival and the famous Apatani tribe, Ziro is perhaps not as unknown and untouched as other parts of Arunachal. However, it is no less picturesque and scenic and one of the better places to spend a few days in nature, in the company of friends with some good music thrown in for good measure.

Useful Information

How to get there – Ziro is accessible by road from Itanagar, the capital of Arunachal Pradesh, and the journey takes about 4 hours in good weather. The nearest railways station is Naharlagun, just outside of Itanagar, and the nearest major airport is in Guwahati, about a day’s drive. The best route is to fly into Guwahati, take an overnight train into Naharlagun and then drive up to Ziro. It is a long journey but worth every bit, once you get to Ziro.

Where to Stay – Ziro Valley has a cluster of small villages, with Hapoli being the biggest town. There are several small hotels and a couple of resorts, but the best option is a homestay. NgunuZiro is an NGO in Ziro that runs several community and eco development projects and can organize a stay with a local family.

Don’t Miss – Obviously the Ziro festival is a huge highlight, as well as experiencing the Apatani culture and way of life. Try and hike or trek around the valley as well to really immerse yourself in the natural beauty; the local tourist office has information on hiking options. If possible visit some of the small villages around the valley; and for the really adventurous, you might want to try the local delicacy of fried rat!

To know more about the Ziro Festival of Music you can visit the official website here. You can also get in touch with Eastern Routes, a wonderful North East focused boutique travel agency that runs North East focused experiential tours and can also help you plan and book your Ziro valley experience and beyond.