For many Indians, Ladakh is one of those elusive dream destinations. Flights are expensive, the atmospheric conditions are not the most favourable, the drives are long and hard, and the terrain can be harsh and unforgiving. This was true for us as well, where many trips had been planned and cancelled, and the dream remained elusive. But the region always held a special fascination for us, as it does for most people, with its dream like landscape, icy blue lakes, dark towering peaks of the Karakoram, and stunningly diverse people. It is a photographers dream and Hoshner was especially keen on losing himself in its wild beauty.

Then one day, as these things are wont to happen, the pieces fell into place and the Ladakh dream became a reality. We had just quit our jobs; it was the first journey of the rediscovery project, and like little kids, we clambered over each other to get a glimpse of the snow capped Ladakh range which dwarfed the city of Leh as we descended into the tiny airport. Our journey and the rediscovery of India had begun.

The team from Voygr, with whom we planned our trip, met us at the airport and briefed us on the itinerary, warning us more than once to make sure we rested well that day. It’s one of those things you hear all the time, about the difficulties of altitude sickness and the dangers of thin air, but you don’t really understand it till you are in that situation. So please do listen to your guides and trip planners, it is one of those times when it is not a bad thing to be a little over cautious.

Suitably rested and loaded up on Diamox (an anti-altitude sickness pill) and plenty of water with electoral, we tested our mountain legs with a short walk up to the Shanti Stupa, the white steeple Japanese pagoda. Along with the magnificent snow clad Ladakh range, the Stupa dominates the little town of Leh, and no matter where you stood, you could see the young pagoda battling the age old mountains for the limelight. We reached the top just as the sun set, bathing the sky and the town in gentle blue hues.

The next day we set off on what was to be the first of many long drives through winding roads cut from the mountain sides; where rivers from glacial melt gushed down the side, constantly threatening to make the road one with the mountain again. The next 15 days made us appreciate why Ladakh is considered one of the most unique places in India (and perhaps the world), and as we made our way out of Leh into the vastness of this high altitude dessert  we couldn’t help but be amazed at the scenes that were unfolding in front of us. Till date it remains one of our most favourite journeys, made all the more special and extraordinary by Behzad, our guide, and his fantastic team. Though we covered a lot of ground, it never once felt like we were being rushed or were on a ‘typical’ tour, where you take a selfie and leave. 

Our first stop and our favourite was the Nubra valley. Known in ancient times as Ldumra or the Valley of Flowers, it is perhaps the most stunning region of Ladakh. The fact that you need to cross the Khardung-la pass, one of the highest motorable roads in the world, to get there makes it all the more special. And a little challenging, truth be told. At 5,359 metres, the air is extremely thin, and realistically you can’t spend more than 10-15 minutes at the pass. To give you a little perspective, Everest Base Camp is at 5,380 metres.

The rivers in the valley, fed by snow melt from the Siachen glacier, have sculpted the Karakoram Range over centuries, into unique rock formations of numerous hues. It is impossible to imagine that rock faces can be different colours of the rainbow, till you come to Nubra. As you descend from the mountains into the vast desert landscape of Hunder, with miles of rolling sand dunes and brilliant blue skies, you get the distinct feeling that no matter how far you travel you will probably not know anything quite as incredible as the Nubra Valley.

After marvelling at the wonders of Nubra, vowing to return again someday, we headed eastward. Most people who travel to Ladakh visit the Pongang Tso, however, we decided to skip it and instead drove to the far more remote and scenic, Tso Moriri and Tso Kar. Tso is lake in Tibetan. These unique lakes, perched at over 4,500 meters above sea level were formed when the Indian subcontinent drifted into the Eurasian plate, causing the mighty Himalayan and Karakoram ranges to rise out from the catatonic crashing of land mass.  Today these lakes are an oasis of calm and splendour, with various shades of aquamarine surrounded by snow-capped peaks standing 6,000 meters tall. The lakes are also home to various migratory birds and the plains around support the Chang Pa nomadic tribes, breeders of the famous pashmina sheep, who have over the years wandered over from China and Tibet making these areas their home. Tso Kar, a salt water lake, is also a source of salt for the nomads and villages in the surrounding region.

At Tso Moriri, Voygr had arranged for us to spend a couple of nights camping with the nomads and observing their way of life, which continues unhindered by the shifting sands of time. We spent our time in the Korzok Monastery, walking the grasslands where the sheep and horses graze, and watched the nomads go about their daily routine. It was amongst the highlights of our time in Ladakh.

As part of our itinerary, we also visited the ancient village of Dah, whose inhabitants believe that they are descendants of the Aryans and claim to trace their lineage back to the armies of Alexander. True or not, it makes for a fascinating story and the people, dressed up in their traditional finery, are attractive and colourful, though the influx of tourists means the villages are getting commercialized.

The monastery at Lamayuru set in the middle of the incredible landscape which visitors over the years have described as ‘moonscape’, and Tingmosgang where we got some of our first  photos of the night sky lit by a billion stars, were two other stops along the way.

As expected, Ladakh and the surrounding regions, exceeded any expectations we might have had. Whatever you hear, read or see of this incredible region does not prepare you for the reality of just how stunning nature is in its purest form. We loved Ladakh for many reasons, for the indescribable landscape, for the ancient monasteries perched majestically on the edge of cliffs and for the mountains which seemed to shimmer and glow day or night. And we also loved it for the people, and that simple yet beautiful greeting of Jule which always draws a smile across the weathered faces of the friendly locals.

Some Useful Information

How to Plan it

Whilst you can plan your Ladakh trip on your own, it does take some doing and to enjoy a hassle free experience we would recommend you engage the services of an expert. We planned our trip with Voygr, an offbeat travel experiences company headed by Behzad Larry, who is all things Ladakh. Voygr offers fixed date pre-packaged and speciality tours including Photography, Mountaineering and Trout fishing expeditions , as well as customised trips. They are knowledgeable and professional and work with some of the best guides in the region.

Best Time to Visit

Ladakh is in the rain shadow of the Himalayas and thus doesn’t get much precipitation. This makes June to September the ideal time to visit, when the passes are open and before it gets too cold. However for those will to brave the cold for a unique experience February and March is a great time to visit Ladakh for lesser crowds, ethereal views and an opportunity to spot the elusive Snow Leopards !  

How to get there

Leh and Ladakh can be accessed either by flight, or by road. If you are coming by road, there are two options, one through Manali and the either from Jammu. The drive up is stunning and if you have the time we would recommend that option. It also means that you naturally acclimatize on your way up. Most airlines operate flight to Leh from Delhi, though they can be quite expensive and are usually booked up pretty soon, especially in the summer.